This is where you’ll adjust the Clarity, Vibrance and Saturation in the photo. I say a few pixels instead of just one because I’m okay with some completely dark areas for this photo. Here you’ll want to hold down the alt/option key and bring the Blacks slider down until you see a few pixels of black. It’ll show you a completely white overlay and as you move the slider down, the black parts are those that are completely black. So hold down alt/option on your keyboard and drag the Whites slider up until you see one pixel of white.įor the Blacks slider, it’s the opposite. You’ll want to bring the slider up as much as you can without blowing out the photo. As you move the slider, the areas that display as white are completely blown out. You accomplish this by hitting alt/option on your keyboard while simultaneously moving the Whites slider up and Blacks slider down.īy hitting alt/option while using the Whites slider, Lightroom shows you a completely black overlay. What I like to do here is get a white “point” and black “point”. So when working with these sliders, pulling the Blacks slider down will give you a much darker image, and pulling the Whites up will give you a much brighter image – so you should use these sliders much more sparingly than those for Highlights and Shadows. The Whites and Blacks sliders are similar to Highlights and Shadows except they work with more extreme tonal ranges. The original, RAW image I’ll be starting with is below. I’ll be using Lightroom CC 2015 and will be working in the Develop tab, in the right-hand panel. The decision of how much to put in is up to you since it is your art that is being edited.
For example, some photos will require more or less vibrance than others. Keep in mind that the exact number for each setting changes depending on the photo I’m editing. I’ll take you through my entire Lightroom workflow from beginning to end by editing a photo of The Sun Voyager sculpture that I took during a rainy day in Reykjavik, Iceland. So that’s what I’ll be sharing in this post.
#EDITING LANDSCAPE PHOTOS SOFTWARE#
On occasion, people have asked me about the software I use to post process, and my workflow in general. I love to learn and these resources have been an invaluable part of my progress. I learned from watching tutorials from talented photographers like Serge Ramelli and Joshua Cripps, listening to podcasts such as Tripod and the Improve Photography Podcast, and scouring the web for anything I can find on interesting editing techniques. My photo editing process has changed pretty significantly since I started about a year ago. No two people will shoot or edit a photo the exact same way. From start to end, the photography process is about being creative, artistic and uniquely you. The other 20% comes from the editing – bringing down the highlights, brightening shadows, adding some clarity, etc. 80% of photography comes from taking the photo – the exposure, the composition and the focus that happens when you’re actually shooting. That said, editing cannot turn a bad photo into a great photo. I can do it when I want to, stop when I want to, and start again when I feel more inspired. But that’s when being a hobbyist has its greatest advantage. Sure, sometimes it can be a tedious and time-consuming endeavor. Some photographers don’t enjoy photo editing nearly as much as the shoot itself.
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